![]() I sincerely don't know why manufacturers don't supply anvils with a small radius. It is crisp edges from factory that cause most chips, well that and carelessness. Radius is personal preference, but certainly necessary. And have a smaller even radius on the other side. Any thoughts on that plan?ĭepending on what you do on it, may be worth having a radius that starts as it is now and goes down gradually to nothing at the other end. The left side is in much better condition, so I may sand a 3/32" or so radius on it. It would clean up nearly everything but the cut mark. I had considered continuing that radius the entire length of the right side. That'll bring her back to as fine a glory as possible for you.The guy I bought it from dressed that corner. An old school trickle charger works a treat but the new ones that stop when the battery is charged or when there's a short or funny connection don't like this. You can use all sorts of impurities in the water, salt, sugar (not so good) or my favorite phosphoric acid at maybe 10% tops.Ī DC transformer to power it and she'll clean up nicely. The electrolyte of preference is solution of fresh water and washing soda. expanded metal works nicely, the more surface area the faster the reaction. The Cathodes positive side connect to sacrificial iron plates, grids, etc. Attach the anode, negative lead to the anvil, I like in the hardy hole but hanging it from copper wire is probably fine. Hang the anvil in a suitable tank, a plastic tote that will support the anvil's weight hanging from a 2" x 4" or two bridging the sides. Yeah, the pits go away UNLESS you brush off the loose rust in which case they leave little ring shaped depressions. This means as electrolysis converts the rust back to iron / steel the rims of the pits lower to the original surface. "Pitting" is actually rust expanding and the pressure of expansion expresses itself in "circles" which appear to be pits but actually the surrounding rust is higher than the centers. Part of the electrolytic process that should really benefit this project is how the iron molecule return to their original locations. A wire cup brush in an angle grinder is excellent for removing surface rust but this old anvil is deeply pitted so abrasion or acid removal would take a lot of the steel/iron with it. Same for any abrasive action like a wire brush. I've restored a couple hammers that were like swollen pages of paper.Īcids even mild ones like vinegar dissolve rust which removes the iron molecules along with the oxygen. I know it sounds like a tall tale but it's true, check out electrolysis and sunken silver treasure restoration. (Could be days, weeks or years).Įlectrolysis, removes the oxygen molecule from rust and leaves the iron molecule in it's original as made position. If you are patient enough maybe someone will find this thread that has one similar that is more legible and can shed light on it. But the main thing is with any anvil is, there are good ones, and not so good ones, and a maker stamp typically doesn't determine that but the rebound and condition do. (Unless you are trying to sell it and think a maker might help. I personally would be less worried about who made it and more concerned with using it. I don't know what to tell you on trying to figure that out further, but I would say to go with the least destructive (maybe wipe it with flour to raise the definition) to something else less destructive to (only if you are desperate and it could possibly not work and is irriversable) flat sand or grind a little off the face of the letters/numbers to take away the corroded portion and see if it raises the definition of what is there. ![]() I've seen wood pieces shaped to whatever shape they would want with metal plates with info on them used to make molds to be poured with cast iron or cast steel. Or it was a plate attached to the die to make the mold ![]()
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